Tractor info 4 Ryan

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Tractor info 4 Ryan

Postby Alexkara » Wed Oct 28, 2015 10:15 am

Hi Ryan, Could not find your post and the email was from the generic "" which I didn't know would get to you.
In a nutshell, the tractor consists of small irregular shaped parts so double sided tape, glue gun, a scroll saw (for curves) and a mitre saw (for cutting odd shaped straight angles) are your best friend. For the grill I used a thin kerf blade in my table saw and double sided tape to stick the part to larger/manageable stock,
I found that a bandsaw was not as neat and it's fence not as controllable.
Again double tape and formed jig(s) to get drilling orientation (matching angles),
For the hood, again I double sided tape parts to appropriate MDF (3mm or 6mm depending on requirement) and then cut the angles on a mitre saw. Fortunately the parts are small enough to be accommodated by a mitre saw and the taping to backing MDF makes it stable and safe to cut. Just use good quality tape and make sure the backing board is large enough to keep fingers from the blade.
To hold the hood in a vice for sanding/shaping (double sided tape just didn't cut the mustard), I made a "pyramidal" inset in my vice that pivots on a dowel. I have a dedicated mini-workbench (that sits on top of my normal workbench) with the vise and inset which holds the small angled pieces,
better picture of my mini-workbench, it's ideal for the smaller pieces of T&J models and lifts them up to a closer eye level (with not as much bending (groan)) than a standard workbench... it also permits clamping to a solid base from both sides...
The hardest part was the steering wheel. Use a good quality hardwood (like American maple). I do recommend a circle cutter for the outer circle (to get a "perfect" circle) and a scroll saw to cut out the inner hole. I then bored a 40mm hole (same diameter as the steering wheel) into some scrap wood using a forstner bit, about 1mm deep. I hot glued the wheel into the hole and then progressively rounded over the one side of the wheel. Used a heat gun and flipped the wheel, again hot gluing into the hole and rounding over the other side. I used the same jig to drill the angled steering wheel spokes' holes. It's fiddly but once you get the hang of making supporting jigs you will find that it is not so much hard as finicky and time consuming as you MUST apply little pressure and a lot of perseverance.
The large rear wheels/tyres are rounded over using a round over bit (as per instruction), but for the treads (once fitted), I used a 45° jig on a sanding disk followed up by manual finishing.
If you need more specifics feel free to ask or you can email me direct at "".

Good luck... Alex
There are two ways of doing things,,, My way or the right way.
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Location: Downtown Churchill, VIC. Australia.

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